My tomato cages are surprisingly strong, can be broken down for winter storage and can stand up to the largest plant.

I originally came up with the idea when my plants bent those dinky little wire cages to the ground. I ended up propping them up with some spare PVC pipe I had lying around. I ended up somehow coming up with the current cage from that start. I always say those wire cages have the structural integrity of a Slinky.

I do limit my plants to four leaders. That way you can tie one to each upright. I tried letting the plants grow without pruning them, but I've found that four leaders is much easier to control. I do have to tie them up (I use the stretchy green garden tape), but they usually only need one tie every couple of feet.

Eventually, if your plants do well, they will grow out of the top of the cages. When that happens (and I hope it does for you too) just let them continue to grow. They will bend over the top and hang down on the outside of the cage.

I use schedule 40, 3/4 inch PVC irrigation pipe. 1/2 inch is too flimsy.

The uprights are 30 inches long with the bottom ones sunk into the ground about 12 inches. The next section is also 30 inches high. The final section is 24 inches high. I chose 30 inches because that way you get 4 uprights from each 10-foot section of PVC pipe. The top tier in my setup is 24 inches because any higher and you couldn't easily reach the top. Besides, the eaves of the house get in the way.

The tiers are made up of 8 seven and one-quarter inch long pieces. Don't ask me how I came up with 7 1/4 inches. It just works out that way given the space I have available. In fact, 8 inches would work out perfectly to get 15 lengths from a 10-foot piece of pipe if you had the space. It could even be larger if you have the room.

I also use crossover connectors, right angle connectors and Tee connectors.

Do not glue them. It isn't necessary, and if you glue them, you can't take them apart for expansion or storage for the winter.

As a guide for the spacing of the verticals in the ground, I put together one of the squares using the crossover sections. I put that down on the ground. Then I push a stake (or a pencil or a chopstick) through the connector into the ground and that gives you the exact spot to sink the vertical pieces. I drive them into the ground about 12 inches. That makes them pretty stable.

To drive the uprights in the ground, I use a 1-¼ inch piece of galvanized pipe with a cap threaded on one end. Slide the pipe over the upright and pound them into the ground. With my uprights, an 18-inch piece of pipe was perfect. Keep pounding until the bottom of the pipe touches the ground and each upright is exactly the same height. Having the exactly the same height avoids problems fitting the first square.

You should (dare I say must?) drive them in very straight and upright. I don't feel the need for trying to get them perfectly perpendicular with a level though. If they're off by a lot, you might have some problems getting the first square to fit. The pipe is flexible; so some bending can be done in case if they're a bit off.

You can use a hammer and a block of wood or a rubber hammer to drive them in. I did for years. Then I discovered the pipe thing. It's takes away the possibility of breaking the pipe, they seem to go in straighter (did I mention you need to drive them in very straight?) and it's just plain easier.

If you go this route, buy a PVC cutter. Much easier than using a hand saw. If you are already lucky enough to have a power chop saw, a radial arm saw or a table saw, that works even better.

Also make sure all the parts are exactly the same length. Mine weren't and sometimes things didn't fit all that well. Last winter's project was to make each one exactly the same length. It's much easier to fit together when they're all the same size.

When the time comes to take them down, follow this procedure (If you want, I don't really care, but experience tells me this is the best way to do it). Each connector type goes into a separate container (I use 5 gal buckets, but you could use trash cans or trash bags or whatever you have). One container holds the elbows, one holds the T's and one holds the crossovers. It's much easier to assemble them next year when the parts are separated that way. Believe me, I know. Nothing like picking through a pile of connectors looking for the one you need. And the one you need is always beneath the others.